Day one: In Which the travellers have a Very Bad Day
On other holidays I’ve often remarked upon the certain “wrath of god” feel that pervades the whole affair. And little says wrath of god more plainly than spending 3 hours on a broken aircraft while the people in front of you (who can charitably be described as “knobheads” and will most likely be in the room next to us in our hotel) slowly work their way through 4 bottles of duty-free champagne.
It’s coming up on 7pm; round about the time we should have been settling into our rooms in Chamonix. Instead, we have only just gained the sky after having been shuttled from pillar to post and back.
Planes are machines just like your car or your cell phone; occasionally they break when someone drops them in a bowl of washing up or runs them into the back of an un-licensed Pakistani driver on a roundabout, prompting repair. I suppose, instead of being bitter about sitting on a broken plane for 3 hours, that I should be grateful that I was sitting aboard it on the ground rather than plummeting to my doom.
Right around the time the book that I bought to amuse myself for the short 1.5 hour flight was starting to supremely irritate me due to it’s utter inability to live up to it’s two major cover reviews, (”amazing” and “supremely funny”) we were finally informed that our aircraft was in fact completely fucked and we would be disembarking to board one more likely get us off the ground.
Due, no doubt, to our presence in this scenario, the driver of the bus we were loaded onto suffered from severe brain damage, resulting in every passenger from our flight being dropped off at the wrong door and having to go through airport security a second time. I have to admit to a certain amount of quiet, disbelieving rage over this turn of events, but at least I didn’t sink to the level of abusing the BAA stewards who were forced to conduct the event, unlike many other disgruntled passengers. I DID however feel like abusing the bored looking British Airways employee who was standing in the corner like a lemon and completely unable to be of any assistance whatsoever.
Our broken-spirited little party trudged back to the terminal to collect our highly compensatory £5 British Airways meal voucher with which to purchase not very much before almost immediately being called to board our second aircraft. (A word to the wise; a half toasted ham and cheese panini does not sit comfortably on a harassed stomach.)
One would think that after the previous 5 hours that fate could have no more in store for us, but due to the lateness of the hour, the runway traffic had increased substantially, and even more cleverly, someone in business class decided they’d had Just About Enough and threw a punch at a steward causing us to spend yet another hour imprisoned on a motionless aircraft with our increasingly intoxicated friends in the row ahead of us who passed the time by telling stimulating drinking stories.
Wanker 1: So like, this guy I know, yeah? He was doing a Guinness Tower and he must have just necked a hot dog just before cause he was like all BLAH all over his chair and like BLAH all over the floor and then he finished the rest!
Wankers 2 and 3: Cool! Nasty! Etc!
Me:(to The Rock Star) Why don’t fuselages ever rip off and suck people out of planes when you need them to?
Decending into Geneva now and praying for better luck on the slopes tomorrow.
Day 2: In Which Blogapotamus and her Merry Band are left to Fend For Themselves and learn to Respect The Mountain
People often try to warn you about package holidays. But having had such a fantastic time in Banff, Alberta last season, we took a chance and booked with a company called Ski Weekend for our trip to Chamonix.
Now, fair enough that we arrived 5 hours later than scheduled last night and our rep, a British snowbunny called Fleur was probably making her third trip of the day to Geneva with a French bus driver who’s musical taste can only be described as eccentric, but LITERALLY 2 minutes after dropping us off at our hotel, she disappeared off the face of the earth, to deal with the bewildering bus system, where to pick up The Ginger ManTart’s rental skis and NO clue as to which resort best suited our meagre skills.
Despite the confusion of the beginning of the day, there is little more fantastic sight outside you window to wake up to than this.

That, in combination with a delightful breakfast of cereal, tea and French breadstuffs served to somewhat eliminate the stresses of the previous day. In England, we think we know how to make French bread. We are obviously smoking something.
Outside, the snow was beginning to fall at a fair old pace, making for a supremely picturesque Alpine scene when we finally arrived in Chamonix town proper. Every vision of cowbells and cuckoo clocks you’ve ever associated with the Alps is utterly true, down to the painted sprays of Edelweiss on the carved cedar balconies. It must be strange to be a resident of such a beautiful cliché, although the downside is obviously all the fat foreigners in neon one-sies and loads of ski clobber clogging up your busses and slaughtering your language.
After finally locating the hire shop and acquiring ski kit for the Ginger ManTart, we were ready to tackle the mountain. Purely at random, and due to the lack of advice from the elusive Fleur, we chose an area called La Brevent for our first day’s foray into the world of snowsport. (also because it happened to be the destination of the first bus that turned up, so we decided to take our chances rather than spend 15 more minutes at the bus stop with a bunch of surly Germans.)
All of us class ourselves as beginners as far as skill goes, so we were pleased to see the area offered a few green and blue runs, least likely to kill or maim us in any way. However, we were unaware of the Alpine resort practice of downgrading harder slopes if they don’t actually HAVE any beginner runs in order to attract people of all skill levels. Had we had this information, we should not have been surprised to encounter a god almighty drop at the beginning of our very first run, prompting a good deal of swearing and the sound of metal edges grating hard against the slope.
Most people who have read about my previous experiences with bits of slippery wood strapped to my feet might be forgiven for wondering what possesses me to keep at it. I am a complete gimp when it comes to moving from place to place in everyday life. At any given moment in time, I am likely to be sporting 5 to 7 bruises, just from being alive. But for some ungodly reason, when on a snowboard, grace is forced upon me, even for the 5 minutes I manage to stay upright before going head first into a snowbank. So even on our first day back on proper snow in a little over a year, I was already enjoying myself.
Lunch was a cheerful affair; a celebration of surviving our first morning on intermediate runs and taking the piss out of BoyRacer’s goggles, which made him look like The Fly. (earning him the moniker “Bug Boy” for what I imagine will be the rest of the holiday.) After a fairly short pizza and beer filled respite, we decided to head back out to face the afternoon.
You often hear stories about hikers and climbers getting caught out on mountains when the weather suddenly takes a turn for the worse. Just as we decided that we were finished, a storm, which had spent most of the day trying to decide whether or not to happen, happened with the might of god’s own fury. There was an instant whiteout, obscuring all routes off the mountain, and stinging snow that found it’s way into everything, including the inside of hats and goggles. Tired from a day on the slopes, we realized we still had to make it down an unfamiliar course with a steep drop on the right hand side completely blind to get to the gondola station.
It was at that point that I don’t mind telling you that I suffered a slight lapse in reason, although it could probably be more accurately described as a meltdown. And the Rock Star, in a supreme display of why I married him in the first place, picked up my board and we walked down the course doing our best Captain Oates impressions. (”I’m going out. I may be some time.”)
Back in the comfort of our rooms and after orgasmicaly hot showers, we felt ready to forage for some grub. Our late arrival the previous evening had meant that we missed dinner, forcing the Rock Star and I to survive on a strategically squirreled away flapjack, so the four of us were ready for a real slap-up meal to fill our bellies.
Tangent who’s relevance will become clear: There is likely not a soul on the planet that has not had experience with the cool kids club. They’re anywhere where people gather in large groups. No one can say WHY they’re cool, but they seem to recognize their own and band together in a fraternity of exclusivity.
Most likely, you were not in the cool kids club. And when you were younger, it might have bothered you. But as you got older, you realized two things about the cool kids club. One, no one actually believed in their inherent coolness except for them and two, that they’re generally assholes.
So, when we walked into the restaurant next door to our hotel and found ourselves smack dab in the middle of one such club, we were much vexed. The place was owned and run by an Aussie ex-pat and a dozen of his snowrat mates for the express purpose of serving tiny portions of mediocre food to unsuspecting tourists and laughing discreetly at them from behind the bar for their astonishing lack of coolness. (i.e. for having jobs and doing more constructive things than smoking dope all day long) But being hungry as we were and seeing as how the walk into town was 20 minutes long and very cold, we were prepared to suffer the atmosphere.
The set fare consisted of mussels, (which they mercifully ran out of, allowing us to dine upon rocket, cherry tomato and parmesan salad instead) deep fried squid stuffed with crab, (which they did NOT run out of. Both the Rock Star and BoyRacer can’t stand crab and squid makes me gag) chips (thank god) and Banoffee Pie. (inarguably the best part of the meal)
Following the irritating theme of the holiday thus far, we were unable to pay by credit card and were shouted at by one of the legions of cool for not closing the door properly on the way out. The Ginger ManTart and BoyRacer were considering returning after hours to wee on their windows, but we decided the last thing our holiday needed was an evening in a French jail, so we now retire in anticipation of another taxing day on the slopes.
Day Three: In Which the travellers become imprisoned in Deep Snowdrifts and begin to wonder Why We Do This To Ourselves
I have to admit to a certain degree of envy when it comes to European language skills. Hearing the chatter around the breakfast nook this morning, I listened to Germans and Scandinavians switch effortlessly to French to communicate with our hostess while we native English speakers were reduced to clumsy guidebook dialect and sign language.
“Er, je vous dres…um…one of those. Like that… homme…has over there. Yeah…oui, un of those.”
Our hostess does speak English, of course, but only when it becomes obvious that the conversation is heading in the direction of us speaking slowly to her in very loud voices. Luckily, the extent of what we have to say to eachother is limited to choosing coffee, tea or chocolate for breakfast, so we are spared our Anglo-centric humiliation.
For our second day on the piste, we chose to return to La Brevent to give some of the more challenging runs we’d been on the day before a try. There’d been a good deal of snow overnight and the slopes were lovely and groomed in places. However, other nooks and crannies hid deep powder drifts ready to swallow the unwary skier or boarder whole; rather like being stuck inside a giant marshmallow. (we had seen people from the lifts carrying shovels on their backs and wondered why.)
All four of us spent some time fighting our way out of these snowy traps while the others pointed and laughed. BoyRacer suffered a “yard sale” (a term denoting a fall in which the person in question looses many items of gear or clothing, making a long and embarrassing walk up the hill to retrieve them necessary) fairly early on in the day and I managed to get half a slope’s worth of powder down my sallopets, but on the whole, it was another satisfying day on the hill, despite the fog which made distinguishing terrain slightly tricky. White outs on the hill are a bit like going blind in reverse. At one point I lost the boys and sat on the crest of a hill dejectedly only to discover I was less than 100 feet from the lift and the rest of my merry band.
Tired as we were, we were hoping for a speedy arrival of the bus that would take us from Chamonix town centre to our hotel. However, after waiting for nearly an hour, we determined that we were probably onto a lost cause and made the long and chilly walk back with all of our clobber. While snowboard boots are NOT made for walking, they are, in fact, closer to real shoes than ski boots and I didn’t envy BoyRacer’s and The GMT’s uncomfortable yomp back to the hotel, Frankenstein style.
After massaging some life back into our aching feet and defrosting in our rooms for an hour and a half, we caught the last bus of the evening into town to enjoy a meal free of stupidity and hopefully full of, you know, food.
We were rewarded on both counts; After finding a lovely little underground bistro (which was apparently 300 years old and previously used for housing sheep, cheese and wine, although probably not all at the same time) we indulged in some muscle repairing protein in the guise of bloody steaks, lovely crispy chips and roast veggies. The hot fudge brownie I had for desert probably didn’t do much for my muscles, but it was pretty tasty nonetheless.
Prepared this time for a frosty night time walk back to the hotel in proper footwear, the boys indulged in a mile long snowball fight while I marched ahead, listening to the cold carnage taking place behind me.
Another day in the Big Chill over. Potamus Rex over and out.
Day Four: In Which the travellers remember why they came on holiday In The First Place
Brochures for ski holidays always look completely idyllic. Bright blue skies, sparkling powder, snow covered trees. Our first two days on the slopes, while fun and challenging, were rather grey, dull affairs; mountains shyly peaking through curtains of mist only to blush and hide again moments later. But our third day dawned bright, clear and cold; perfect weather for hurtling down hills.
Although we were tempted to stick with the familiar, we ventured to another area called Les Houches which turned out to be the best decision we made during the entire holiday. Les Houches comprises several different areas including Bellevue and Prarion. We went to the latter and moments later were wizzing up through the pine trees in little alien pods, snowboards hanging out of side pockets as if to enjoy the view.
The view from the top was utterly breathtaking and we were eager to scout out good runs down the mountain. The first one we tried was a blue course, which seemed to suit the skiers fine. Long sections of only slightly graduated slope are fine if you happen to be in possession of poles to push yourself along with, but if you’re a snowboarder who’s still a little unsteady on their feet, a long section of flat means a very undignified bunny hop extravaganza which not only makes you look as if you’ve been hooked like a prize Marlin but is utterly exhausting. At several points, BoyRacer and The Ginger ManTart alternately dragged or pushed our sorry asses to the next steep incline in order to facilitate the run. I dearly wish I’d managed to get a picture of the GMT with his head in the Rock Star’s back, pushing him along like an angry bull.
Wearying of this arrangement, The Rock Star and I decided to take our chances with a red run which turned out to be a real thrill ride from top to bottom. Not being the overly adventurous type, (due to aformentioned accidents) I stayed on this run and several other connecting ones for the rest of the day, happily carving my way down steep slopes. The Rock Star, however, is ALWAYS up for trying anything once, and in that spirit chose to undertake a black run.
The colour coding, we think, has more to do with obstacles rather than relative steepness. The more things placed in your path that you can potentially go splat against determines the difficulty of the slope. Of course, a sheer drop off the side of a mountain, trees, rocks or no is probably going to merit a black rating, but the course The Rock Star chose was simply littered with obstacles and, obviously for the amusement of others, ran directly under the chairlift so that your humiliation could be witnessed by all. One boarder we saw attempted a spectacular back flip into a dip and disappeared in a spray of powder to thunderous applause.
At any rate, my man made it down safely, albeit slowly and snow covered and spent the rest of the day smirking quietly to himself over his achievement.
The end of the day drew nigh and although we were sad that our holiday was essentially at an end, we decided that rather than take the alien pods back down the mountain, we’d try the ski-out instead; a course that ran directly down the mountain to the car park. Tired as I was, I’m so grateful the Rock Star convinced me to do it; the long shadows of afternoon were dramatic on the peaks in the distance and snow blew off the tops like long tendrils of white hair. Powder from the trees sparkled in the air and although we were joined by a great many others on the way down, the quiet was heavenly. It was a brilliant run down too; well groomed and super fun for carving.
That night in town, we indulged in our last après’ ski meal at a brassiere across the street from where we’d eaten the previous evening. BoyRacer ordered 4 “grand biers” to celebrate a break/sprain/major injury free holiday and we were all vaguely surprised when we each received a full litre and a half of the stuff in glasses you could easily beat a horse to death with. Europeans love their bier; and charging extortionate rates for it as well. We discovered that each of our colossal beverages had cost almost 14 euros; 10 pounds! I again surrendered to the siren song of pudding; this time, chocolate crepes with vanilla ice cream. Dribble.
Ajourning to a mountain themed bar, we relaxed with nightcaps while being suffocated by French cigarette smoke and watching videos of people who were obviously being paid by companies like Burton, Quicksilver and Salomon to travel the world, act like complete tools and occasionally hurl themselves over cliffs wearing skiis. The crashes, at least, were spectacular, eliciting appreciative groans from the entire establishment.
After the 4 grand biers, however, none of us found that we had much stamina for drinking and so quit the place in favour of a lightning fast trot pack to Hotel des Lacs. Clear skies make for great pictures, but also for VERY cold weather. BoyRacer had sadly underdressed for the occasion so he and the GMT jogged while the Rock Star and I took a more leisurely pace to enjoy the mountains by moonlight.
And so we retire for our last night among the Alps.
Day Five: In Which the travellers will be Very Grateful to return
It’s a shame that the travelling part of travelling is usually the worst part of the travelling experience; it’s also the part that you begin and end with, so it has a way of sticking out in your head. Our less than smooth journey out had put us off on the wrong foot, so we were determined to have a hassle free experience on the way back. (although The GMT was not entirely sure he wouldn’t have something to say to our Amazing Disappearing Rep when she returned with the bus to pick us up)
It was a relaxing enough morning. We had to vacate our rooms by 11, but the hotel boasted a very small bar that we reclined in until 1, periodically ordering hot chocolates from the hostess, who, by this time, was probably ready to have us all out of her hair. We took brief walks out in the Alpine sunshine, took pictures and ruminated over the happening of the last 3 days.
Finally, the coach arrived and a woman that we assumed was our rep Fleur (we hadn’t gotten a good enough look at her on Thursday night to be sure) cheerfully hoped we’d had a nice weekend and bundled us, along with some of our equally disgruntled tourmates aboard for the trip back to Geneva. The majestic scenery on the way back was slightly marred by the in-bus movie that Fleur had chosen for our viewing pleasure; House of Flying Daggers.
The Rock Star and I own this film, although, in our defence, we had heard it was a masterpiece before we bought it. One thing I CAN say is that the Chinese have the cinematography thing sewn up. I mean, really nailed. Visually, it’s a stunning film. But NOTHING REALLY HAPPENS.
Major plot elements:
A Man visits a brothel
A Woman does a dance. With beans.
A bunch of fighting happens
A man sits on his horse in the woods. Twice.
A bunch more fighting happens, but this time, in the snow.
The point of all of this is that it’s hard to enjoy the majesty of one of the world’s most beautiful mountain ranges with hundreds of flying Chinese people screaming in your ear.
Upon arriving at the airport in Geneva, the bus driver, who had loaded our bags into the vehicle, went to have a smoke, leaving us to unpack the luggage compartment ourselves while Fleur watched us impassively from the sidelines. “Thanks for the GREAT WEEKEND!” I shouted at her from inside the bowels of the bus, trying to retrieve my board.
After a mild fiasco at the BA check-in counter involving automated check-in machines, we were finally shot of our luggage and managed to find a quiet corner of the building in which to eat incredibly expensive sandwiches.
The flight on the way home was remarkably uneventful, possibly due to the presence in First Class of Richard Branson.
We saw him in the departure lounge and wondered what the hell the billionare CEO of Virgin Atlantic was doing on a British Airways puddle jump flight from Geneva to London. I mean, doesn’t a guy who owns a global airline, train company, finance business, bridal range, music stores and mobile phone provider have enough beans lying around for a private plane of some sort?
His presence, however, relaxed the GMT, who’s a mildly jittery flier. “I was glad to see him get on,” he said, “There’s no way a BA flight carrying Richard Branson is going to go down in flames. The headlines would just be too big.”
Everybody’s favourite rich guy made the stewards very unhappy, however. They were literally tripping over themselves for the whole flight and being rather short when dealing with requests from the plebes at the back. (i.e. us) No one responds well to having the enemy in their foxhole. Even the pilot was not immune; the landing was executed in a haphazard fashion prompting a group “OOF!” from the entire aircraft. My guess is that this is why Richard Branson flies BA; just to see everyone utterly lose their cool. If I was him, I’d probably do it too.
And so I come to the end of this missive. We made it there, we had some laughs, saw and drank inspiring things, made short work of hills and made it back, all in the space of 5 days. And while it’s back to work tomorrow, the aches in our bones will remind us fondly of the mountains for days to come.